Refactoring
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@@ -24,23 +24,41 @@ This guide provides the blueprint for building your own.
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| **Power** | 3.7V LiPo Battery and a 5V booster/charger board (e.g., Adafruit PowerBoost). |
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| **MIDI Circuit Parts** | 6N138 or 6N137 Optocoupler, 1N4148 Diode, various resistors (see diagram). |
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## Powering Your Synth (Battery Operation)
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## Powering Your Synth
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To make the synth truly portable, we'll use a LiPo battery and a booster board. This is critical for providing stable power to all components.
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You can power the synth either from a portable LiPo battery or directly from USB.
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### Battery Operation (Portable)
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To make the synth truly portable, use a LiPo battery and a 5V booster/charger board. This provides stable power to all components.
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> **LIPO BATTERY WARNING**: LiPo batteries are powerful but require careful handling.
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> * **Never** use a LiPo battery without a dedicated protection and charging circuit like the PowerBoost.
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> * Do not puncture, bend, or short-circuit a LiPo battery.
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### Wiring for Power:
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1. Connect the **LiPo battery** to the JST connector on the **PowerBoost board**.
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2. Connect the **PowerBoost's 5V output** to the **Pico's VBUS pin (Pin 40)**. This powers the Pico.
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3. Connect the **PowerBoost's 5V output** to the **VCC/VIN pin of your I2S Audio Module**.
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4. Connect the **PowerBoost's GND** to one of the **Pico's GND pins**.
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5. Connect this **common ground** to the **GND pins of all other components** (OLED, I2S Module, Encoder, Potentiometer, MIDI circuit).
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4. Connect the **PowerBoost's GND** to one of the **Pico's GND pins**. This creates a common ground.
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This setup ensures everything shares a common ground and that the power-hungry components get the stable 5V they need, while the Pico's onboard regulator provides 3.3V for the lower-power parts.
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### USB Operation
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If you don't need battery power, you can run the synth from a USB source (like a computer or wall adapter). The wiring is simpler.
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There are two ways to power the components:
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**Option 1 (Simplest): Power everything from 3.3V**
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The PCM5102A DAC chip runs natively on 3.3V. This is the easiest and safest wiring method for USB operation.
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1. Power the Pico by connecting its **micro-USB port** to a USB power source.
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2. Connect the Pico's **3V3(OUT) pin (Pin 36)** to the VCC/VIN pins of **all** components: the I2S Module, OLED, Rotary Encoder, Potentiometer, and MIDI circuit.
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3. Ensure all components share a **common ground** with one of the Pico's GND pins.
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**Option 2: Power I2S Module from 5V (with protection)**
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If you prefer to give the audio module a separate 5V supply from USB. For good measure, adding a Schottky diode (e.g., 1N5817) is recommended to protect against any potential reverse voltage.
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1. Power the Pico via its **micro-USB port**.
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2. Connect the Pico's **VBUS pin (Pin 40)** to the **anode (+)** of a Schottky diode. Connect the **cathode (-)** of the diode to the **VCC/VIN pin of your I2S Audio Module**.
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3. Connect the Pico's **3V3(OUT) pin (Pin 36)** to power the OLED, Encoder, Potentiometer, and MIDI circuit.
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4. Ensure all components share a **common ground**.
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## Wiring & Connections
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@@ -49,11 +67,12 @@ Establish a **common ground** by connecting the ground from your PowerBoost boar
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| Component | Pico Pin | Description |
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| ------------------ | ------------------ | ---------------------------------------------- |
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| **I2S Audio Module** | | |
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| VCC | 5V from PowerBoost | Power for the amplifier |
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| VCC | 3.3V or 5V Source (see Power section) | Power for the amplifier |
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| GND | Common GND | Ground |
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| DIN (Data) | GP11 (Pin 15) | I2S Data Out |
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| BCLK (Bit Clock) | GP9 (Pin 12) | I2S Bit Clock |
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| LRCK (Word Clock) | GP10 (Pin 14) | I2S Left/Right Clock |
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| SCK (System Clock) | GND | **PCM5102 Only**: Connect to GND for internal PLL |
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| **SSD1306 OLED** | | |
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| VCC | 3V3 (OUT) (Pin 36) | 3.3V Power |
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| GND | Common GND | Ground |
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